Thursday November 12th 2009 Taos Pueblo
Completely Magical.
Sat at Loka’s Café, working on my blog. Felt tense, sadness. I tried to shake off my uneasy feelings by taking the walking path around the park behind Kit Carson. Came across a cemetery of great Taos leaders. I stopped in my tracks. A sign read of the fear that swept the people when New Mexico was being annexed by the United States. They were afraid that their land would be taken. Not only the natives, who held agreements only with Mexico, I realized also the Mexicans of that area must also have been fearful to become part of the U.S. as well, with lower status, potential social marginalization and economic oppression. It was beginning to make sense why I felt fear and division between natives, whites, and the Spanish.
After driving by again and again, drawn in, I finally stopped at a gem shop down the road. Spent over an hour in there. I decided that when I visit the Taos Pueblo, I would give a gift to someone and it would help dissipate division felt by the people and the land. Finally found that one piece with the perfect qualities. It was the only one of its kind, no marked price. It helped to dissipate all the intense energy in the environment and myself. On my way to Patti Tronolone’s house for dinner, I stopped at Our Lady of Guadalupe Church. A famous site, yet unassuming, sitting amongst the adobe homes and opened shops. I entered. The new stone in hand. Silent. Heavy air with sacredness. Only one there – empty. Large stain glass windows, catching the light of the setting sun. A place to honor Mother Mary, the Black and White Madonna. I stood before the front of the church, then back of the church. I sat at pew and meditated. The last few rays illuminating the spot I sat. Then prayed over the stone. The White people are of the mind, of consciousness. Too much ego. Taos Pueblo – of Earth, some sadness. Latin Americans – heart, some closedness. Bring all back into balance. Share gifts with other groups. Cleansing. Silence. Neutralizing. Must give stone to someone at Pueblo tomorrow. Called to the lake. Worked with it. Want to go even though prohibited. I refer to the sacred Blue Lake. I didn’t know anything about it. All I knew is that I felt it, I am drawn, and it is not opened to outsiders. I made my way to Patti’s home. Delicious, homemade dinner. Great sharing. So tired. Long day. 45 minutes to the Leahy’s house. Drag myself to bed.
Thursday morning, talked to mom. Old karma for me at Pueblo. Would probably gift to young man rather than elder. She felt I would go to lake. The Taos people are the only Pueblo tribe that has not been dislocated from their land. The sacred Taos Mountain with Blue Lake, Deer Lake, Turtle Lake, Eagle’s Nest were taken from them by the American government until about 1972. Many Taos leaders fought their whole lives to return these places to their people. They have been living by many of the old ways still. They pilgrimage on horse or by foot to do ceremony on the mountain. They speak Tiwa, which they have safeguarded by refusing to create a written language out of it. The Pueblo is dwindling in size year after year, as the youth choose to explore cities other towns of greater economic and occupational opportunity, social diversity, and a time of independence. So as I arrived, I registered, was greeted warmly, and was left to wander around and look around the res on a self-guided tour. I thought how am I ever going to find the person I need to meet?? I didn’t feel like walking around and seeing. I wanted to feel and to connect with the land and the people. I felt the impulse to remove my shoes because I would call this sacred ground. At least to me and how I felt walking it. It felt gentler there. More heart than non-Indian territory. As I walk without my shoes, somehow everyone becomes interested. Who is this girl? Soon I approached by a man who asked, “Hey, didn’t I see you at Loka’s café yesterday?” I was impressed he remembered. He said he is an artist and to come check out his gallery a couple pueblos down. Then he pointed to a man selling jewelry at a table. He pointed, that guy wants to know why you aren’t wearing any shoes. So I went over. He asked me questions and I gave him short, simple answers. Then he invited me to sit down by him and he wanted to know more. So I talked about the land. I had tears held back. We talked about healing. His name is Raphael, is 42 years old, divorced and cheated on, and has two boys just a few years younger than me. He is full Taos of the Red Willow Clan and grew up with all the ceremonial ways. Is a drummer and sings traditional songs as well. He lived in NYC for seven years, but has returned to his homeland. He wants to take his boys to NY with him after the younger one graduates high school, so that they can explore life some more off the res. So we had a heart to heart. He understood where I was coming from. He wanted to see the stone I was carrying, so I handed it over. I said it was for him and told him how I brought it to give to someone here and he must be the one. He was very pleased. I mentioned how I was drawn to the Blue Lake, he asked how I knew about it, and asked me poignant questions. He asked what I was doing after this and he offered to show me around the tribal areas. Many people say the Taos are very protective about their ways and sharing them. I did not find this to be true during my visit. Raphael said he also had something to give me. I smiled. After he packed up and I sat by the river for some time, we went over to his family pueblo, where I met his mother and sister. His mother was sewing and invited me to sit down. They were pretty opened. He grabbed a couple things and dragged me back out to my car. He told me where to drive and we circled the sacred Taos Mountain. He explained that he could not take me to the Blue Lake because it is up on the Taos Mountain and there are no roads to get there. Only by horse and foot. But he showed me Eagle’s Nest Lake. We pulled the car over and he pointed out where Blue Lake was on the Mountain. Raphael put on a CD of old ceremonial, prayer songs they still sing today. The recording was of his Great-Uncle and his Grandfather singing in 1952. Beautiful. We drove on and he told me about the traditional races. About why they don’t celebrate Halloween. And, he described his experiences on the East coast, being invited to powwows held only by white people. He did not have a problem with that and it surprised me. In fact, it made me a little uneasy. I am conscientious about ceremonies being conducted properly. Perhaps I am a bit of an old traditionalist. He grew up with the old ways and told me many things. I will not discuss them here because he told me to keep it private. Raphael invited me to come back during their ceremonial times this winter. The deer dance and the turtle dance. I would love to. He gifted me a Kachina with two bears carved and mounted on cedar. He said it would keep me safe. I was also gifted the CD of his elders singing the old prayers. So grateful. We stopped by the river and we did a small ceremony. He brought his sage. We smudged with my Condor feather. I offered tobacco by the river. We finished our drive around the mountain; he played his drum and sang ceremonial songs all the way back. I have been blessed. He wants to be in touch, and called me on Thanksgiving. I felt at home at the Taos Pueblo. I’ll be back.
Sunday, November 29, 2009
The Navajo Mountain of the West: Mount Humphreys or Doko'oosliid
Monday, November 23rd 2009
Emotions running high the past couple days. Body aching to find a opening for saddness to escape. Deep pain, letting go, moving on. I am delicate. Acceptance. And strong. Patience. A time of water, cleansing, healing the emotional body, the mountain that teaches of these things.
Doko'ooslid traslates as "was adorned with abalone shell." The Same Holy People replanted the Western Mountain in the Forth World the same as the North, East and South Mountain except that they dressed and decoreated this mountain with abalone shell to create understanding of our social unity and life (lina). Doko'ooslid was tied to the earth with a sunbeam by the Holy People. These are the holy people told to live in the mountain.
Doko'ooslid sustains the highest peak in Arizona at approximately 12,000 feet. This time of year with the ice and snow, few people climb, and even fewer attempt reaching the peak. I left Flagstaff for the sacred mountain at 10:30am and was unable to begin my walk until nearly 1pm. My directions were unclear, finding myself out by Sunset Crater, returned to downtown Flagstaff and took off toward the Crand Canyon. The entrace to Mount Humphreys is called Snow Bowl. The turn off was much closer than I thought and I sped of miles down the road. My mishaps stopped me near a small, odd shaped church. A couple sat inside holding each other, gazing out the rear, glass wall into the vast landscape.
Down the road. A red jeep, broken down, roadside, the hood propped up. Car trouble. Pulling over to ask where to find Snow Bowl, the guys pointed me back from which I came. They were two Frenchmen, having rented a jeep in Las Vegas, were now flustered with electrical problems. Or so they thought. I said I had jumper cables. They were doubtful, but we gave it a try...Viola! Fix em up. I spit off a little French for my own pleasure. They spoke English well. So alas, I pull into the parking lot of the Western Mountain! Empty ski lifts sloped down the mountain; not quite enough snow for the season to begin. There has also been controversy surrounding the artificial production of snow. The water being used is coming from recycled city water - i.e. sewer sludge. Many locals, particularly natives, are concerned with the detriment of environmental pollution.
Emotion still tender, but by the time I was swallowed by the mountain, I was more integrated. Packed up my sacred objects, Florida water, down jacket, hat, gloves, trail mix, what little water I had left, and the water offering I had collected the previous day from Eldon Springs - a brother mountain. Sidenote: When I went to Eldon Springs, I sat by a Ponderosa Pine to meditate. As I closed my eyes, healing my heart, the emotions, bees began to emerge. There were about 6 or 7 that crawled all over me, buzzing in my face, crawling over the bottle of water I collected. I asked them not to harm me, but to help me integrate and heal. Fifiteen minutes later they continued to work. I was ready to go, so I asked them to please leave and I thanked them for their assistance. Immediately they left, and two reamined on the water bottle as I carried it to the car. Then just one bee. Then none. I felt better.
Back to the mountain...I study the trail map. To my concern, it was unclear if the easy-hiking "Kachina Trail" is really on Mount Humphreys or simply nearby. What to do. I decided it was better to hike just a little ways on the "treaturous" Humphreys Peak Trail and make my offering on the proper mountain. With nearly an empty stomach, I begin the climb at 10,000 feet. Birds call, there is already snow on the ground from the getgo, but softened from the minimal rays illuminating portions of trail. Frequent stops. Cold air in my lungs. Gaspping for breath. I hike for 45mins. A guys from the area, but has been living in Chicago, emerged on the scene. We ended up walking the entire day together. Both Kenny and I were looking forward to the solo hike, but with the weather conditions, altitude, and test of enduarance, we banned together. He was not very spiritual, which changed the value of the journey. But I didn't question. Now I understand that is was more about social unity than anything else. Mountain teaches. Off we go, at a rapid pace, twisting around ridgeback after ridgeback. Higher and higher. He ledc the way. I thought about emotions. Women rely on men too much. But this walk reminded me that we must take responsibility for oursleves, process emotions alone, and then can be guided by the male. We must always digest our own experiences, but are meant to return to the stability of social solidarity. We stop only once. Expansive view!
My thighs burn, breath short but we carry on. Two hours later, a sign appearsmarking 11,400 feet. We break soon after, share a snack. I'm short on water. A crow swoops low again and again. Circling above. I signal back with delight. The guy was creeped out by the crow. I thought it was strange. We move on, talking with the few who are on their way down. Some went to the top others didn't attempt. They said it was really steep, icy, cold, windy, and nothing to hold on to. The altitude began to hit us and our legs wobbled, focused not to misstep. We felt weak, but I came with much optimism. We knew it was impossible to make it to the peak since we began so late in the day. I knew we would have done it otherwise, and quickly shook off out dissapointment. As late afternoon subdued the sun, it became cold. My toes numb. We surrendered a mile from the peak. He ate, and I offered tobacco, florida water, prayer, and the spring water that I brought. I offered Kenny some tobacco to add his own prayer if he wanted. The setting sun hit the rocks and mountains below. Illuminating everything with warmth and beauty. Took photos. A feeling came over me. Time to go...I knew that the last ten to fifteen minutes to the car would be in the dark night. Neither of us carried a flashlight. "Come on!" I led the way back down. The thickening ice, stones, sticks, and steepness prevented us from going to quickly, although I wasted no time. Kenny and I thanked each other for the company. He admited to having fear of getting stuck out there alone and dying, like he read in a classic novel, the author having escaped my memory. I found that interesting. I am not afraid of being alone in nature. I do not feel alone. I feel protected. So the sun setted fast, and it was a long way down. The ice became increasingy invisible. I indicated which steps were slick either by word or by falling. Both of us were slipping and catching oursleves gracefully, even if fully slammed down - ass to ice. I commented how falling on ice is like being tossed by ocean waves. You cannot resist the element of water. Go with it, you will not get hurt, but resist, and injury occurs. Same with emotions. Roll with it, they reslease. Resist, and they are stored away, toxifying the organs. Frozen water teaches the way flowing water does.
Thank God for my rakau giving me stability, strength, and way to poke at the ice. Darkness filled the forest as we enter the lower regions where the trees grow densely and light is blocked from the trail. The softened snow now frozen. I feel the pressure. Faster faster. We cannot negotiate this trial in the dark. Only one third of the moon tonight. Not quite enough. We are silent, our hearts beating faster, and I can almost hear our minds aloud so focused saying, "Here, here, ok, rock, slippery, here, here, faster, dark, here, here." We direct our feet. Only a few colors spark between trees as we finally emerge onto the open trail without snow, out of the forest. I was tired. But also glad we were the last ones up there and came back hidden behind the unknown veil of night. I led us back to our cars. I gave Kenny a hug. He was stiff. We waved, smiled, and took of on our warm cars. My fingers and toes thawing. So tired, my muscles stressed. Emotions settled, cleansed. I return to Tharon and Andrea's. Cook dinner. Watch Heroes. Bed. The night still with me, the mountain a unique, unexpected expedition. Happy.
Lady Moon, Venus, and a thread of light speeding by...
Emotions running high the past couple days. Body aching to find a opening for saddness to escape. Deep pain, letting go, moving on. I am delicate. Acceptance. And strong. Patience. A time of water, cleansing, healing the emotional body, the mountain that teaches of these things.
Doko'ooslid traslates as "was adorned with abalone shell." The Same Holy People replanted the Western Mountain in the Forth World the same as the North, East and South Mountain except that they dressed and decoreated this mountain with abalone shell to create understanding of our social unity and life (lina). Doko'ooslid was tied to the earth with a sunbeam by the Holy People. These are the holy people told to live in the mountain.
Doko'ooslid sustains the highest peak in Arizona at approximately 12,000 feet. This time of year with the ice and snow, few people climb, and even fewer attempt reaching the peak. I left Flagstaff for the sacred mountain at 10:30am and was unable to begin my walk until nearly 1pm. My directions were unclear, finding myself out by Sunset Crater, returned to downtown Flagstaff and took off toward the Crand Canyon. The entrace to Mount Humphreys is called Snow Bowl. The turn off was much closer than I thought and I sped of miles down the road. My mishaps stopped me near a small, odd shaped church. A couple sat inside holding each other, gazing out the rear, glass wall into the vast landscape.
Down the road. A red jeep, broken down, roadside, the hood propped up. Car trouble. Pulling over to ask where to find Snow Bowl, the guys pointed me back from which I came. They were two Frenchmen, having rented a jeep in Las Vegas, were now flustered with electrical problems. Or so they thought. I said I had jumper cables. They were doubtful, but we gave it a try...Viola! Fix em up. I spit off a little French for my own pleasure. They spoke English well. So alas, I pull into the parking lot of the Western Mountain! Empty ski lifts sloped down the mountain; not quite enough snow for the season to begin. There has also been controversy surrounding the artificial production of snow. The water being used is coming from recycled city water - i.e. sewer sludge. Many locals, particularly natives, are concerned with the detriment of environmental pollution.
Emotion still tender, but by the time I was swallowed by the mountain, I was more integrated. Packed up my sacred objects, Florida water, down jacket, hat, gloves, trail mix, what little water I had left, and the water offering I had collected the previous day from Eldon Springs - a brother mountain. Sidenote: When I went to Eldon Springs, I sat by a Ponderosa Pine to meditate. As I closed my eyes, healing my heart, the emotions, bees began to emerge. There were about 6 or 7 that crawled all over me, buzzing in my face, crawling over the bottle of water I collected. I asked them not to harm me, but to help me integrate and heal. Fifiteen minutes later they continued to work. I was ready to go, so I asked them to please leave and I thanked them for their assistance. Immediately they left, and two reamined on the water bottle as I carried it to the car. Then just one bee. Then none. I felt better.
Back to the mountain...I study the trail map. To my concern, it was unclear if the easy-hiking "Kachina Trail" is really on Mount Humphreys or simply nearby. What to do. I decided it was better to hike just a little ways on the "treaturous" Humphreys Peak Trail and make my offering on the proper mountain. With nearly an empty stomach, I begin the climb at 10,000 feet. Birds call, there is already snow on the ground from the getgo, but softened from the minimal rays illuminating portions of trail. Frequent stops. Cold air in my lungs. Gaspping for breath. I hike for 45mins. A guys from the area, but has been living in Chicago, emerged on the scene. We ended up walking the entire day together. Both Kenny and I were looking forward to the solo hike, but with the weather conditions, altitude, and test of enduarance, we banned together. He was not very spiritual, which changed the value of the journey. But I didn't question. Now I understand that is was more about social unity than anything else. Mountain teaches. Off we go, at a rapid pace, twisting around ridgeback after ridgeback. Higher and higher. He ledc the way. I thought about emotions. Women rely on men too much. But this walk reminded me that we must take responsibility for oursleves, process emotions alone, and then can be guided by the male. We must always digest our own experiences, but are meant to return to the stability of social solidarity. We stop only once. Expansive view!
My thighs burn, breath short but we carry on. Two hours later, a sign appearsmarking 11,400 feet. We break soon after, share a snack. I'm short on water. A crow swoops low again and again. Circling above. I signal back with delight. The guy was creeped out by the crow. I thought it was strange. We move on, talking with the few who are on their way down. Some went to the top others didn't attempt. They said it was really steep, icy, cold, windy, and nothing to hold on to. The altitude began to hit us and our legs wobbled, focused not to misstep. We felt weak, but I came with much optimism. We knew it was impossible to make it to the peak since we began so late in the day. I knew we would have done it otherwise, and quickly shook off out dissapointment. As late afternoon subdued the sun, it became cold. My toes numb. We surrendered a mile from the peak. He ate, and I offered tobacco, florida water, prayer, and the spring water that I brought. I offered Kenny some tobacco to add his own prayer if he wanted. The setting sun hit the rocks and mountains below. Illuminating everything with warmth and beauty. Took photos. A feeling came over me. Time to go...I knew that the last ten to fifteen minutes to the car would be in the dark night. Neither of us carried a flashlight. "Come on!" I led the way back down. The thickening ice, stones, sticks, and steepness prevented us from going to quickly, although I wasted no time. Kenny and I thanked each other for the company. He admited to having fear of getting stuck out there alone and dying, like he read in a classic novel, the author having escaped my memory. I found that interesting. I am not afraid of being alone in nature. I do not feel alone. I feel protected. So the sun setted fast, and it was a long way down. The ice became increasingy invisible. I indicated which steps were slick either by word or by falling. Both of us were slipping and catching oursleves gracefully, even if fully slammed down - ass to ice. I commented how falling on ice is like being tossed by ocean waves. You cannot resist the element of water. Go with it, you will not get hurt, but resist, and injury occurs. Same with emotions. Roll with it, they reslease. Resist, and they are stored away, toxifying the organs. Frozen water teaches the way flowing water does.
Thank God for my rakau giving me stability, strength, and way to poke at the ice. Darkness filled the forest as we enter the lower regions where the trees grow densely and light is blocked from the trail. The softened snow now frozen. I feel the pressure. Faster faster. We cannot negotiate this trial in the dark. Only one third of the moon tonight. Not quite enough. We are silent, our hearts beating faster, and I can almost hear our minds aloud so focused saying, "Here, here, ok, rock, slippery, here, here, faster, dark, here, here." We direct our feet. Only a few colors spark between trees as we finally emerge onto the open trail without snow, out of the forest. I was tired. But also glad we were the last ones up there and came back hidden behind the unknown veil of night. I led us back to our cars. I gave Kenny a hug. He was stiff. We waved, smiled, and took of on our warm cars. My fingers and toes thawing. So tired, my muscles stressed. Emotions settled, cleansed. I return to Tharon and Andrea's. Cook dinner. Watch Heroes. Bed. The night still with me, the mountain a unique, unexpected expedition. Happy.
Lady Moon, Venus, and a thread of light speeding by...
Saturday, November 28, 2009
Soundtrack
Jolie Holland - Damn Shame
JJ - Intermezzo
Bon Iver - Blood Bank
Manu Chao - Dia Luna...Dia Pena
Bob Dylan - Girl from the North Country
Bonnie Prince Billy - I See a Darkness
Karen O and the Kids - Heads Up
Phoenix - Litzomania
The Shirelles - Mama Said
Bob Marley - The Lord Will Make a Way Somehow
Yungchen Lhamo - Lbasa
Trevor and Sara!! Play it again.
JJ - Intermezzo
Bon Iver - Blood Bank
Manu Chao - Dia Luna...Dia Pena
Bob Dylan - Girl from the North Country
Bonnie Prince Billy - I See a Darkness
Karen O and the Kids - Heads Up
Phoenix - Litzomania
The Shirelles - Mama Said
Bob Marley - The Lord Will Make a Way Somehow
Yungchen Lhamo - Lbasa
Trevor and Sara!! Play it again.
Sunday, November 22, 2009
Sunset Crater and Wupatki Ruins
I arrived in Flagstaff, AZ on Thursday. Staying with Darjaal’s brother and his girlfriend. Cozy place. Clean, (big guest bed :), and a wood burning stove. They are generous and laid back people. I have felt at home. Two Basset Hounds – Quincy and Ella don’t Smella. We have become pals. Tharon is a mechanic and works on motorcycles. He has about 10 in the garage at the house. Some really cool antique ones. Very strange though, while I was driving out here from Grants, NM, I had this – first time in my life – desire to ride on the back of a motorcycle. I decided when I got to Flagstaff I would meet some guy who would give me a ride. Done deal. I am not sure if my mouth was hanging opened as Tharon described his line of work. Andrea, his lady, works in real estate. And it’s a wonder how she is so mellow. I’m am not sure if I have ever met a real estate agent who still had her wits. Cooked dinner for us all last night after a long day on the land…
Yesterday I went to Sunset Crater and the Wupatki Ruins. They are part of the sacred San Francisco Peak range for Navajo and Pueblo people. The range emerged into its present-day form due to most recent volcanic eruption in Arizona occurring 1,000 years ago. Based upon archeological excavation, it appears that the local people were aware of the oncoming eruption from unusual animal activity, increased heat from the earth, or episodes of prior earthquake activity. By the time the lava poured from the sites, the local people had already relocated. Mount Humphreys, Mount Eldon, Mount Agassi, and Mount……? Are the four main mountains, once mesas, now built up into rocky peaks due to the shifting of the tectonic plates. Mount Humphreys is known as the sacred Navajo mountain of the West, and is the highest peak in Arizona at approximately 12,330 feet. I was hoping to climb to the peak this weekend, but from online sources and first-hand experiences, the Humphreys Peak Trail it is treacherous, rocky, straight up, and so cold and windy at the top that some had to crawl the last two miles. The only time of year conducive to the climb is early autumn. I reluctantly will take another trail on the mountain. Sunset Crater is known by the Hopis as the place from which the ancestors return from. The underworld, the place of the ancestors is described by many cultures to be inside volcanoes or underground. Since the crater exposes cooled molten lava from deep within the earth, it makes sense that it would connect this world and that of the afterlife. The site is also a cleansed place because of the destruction and regeneration that occurred. It is a very grounding place with presence and otherworldliness. The Sunset Crater Mountain itself almost jumps out at you like a pop up children’s book. Unusual cooled molten rock formations are accompanied by trees twisted , burnt, or partially rejuvenated. Many trees looked like Kachinas or nature guardian spirits. One looked like a bird being dressed in ceremonial attire, praying with arms out over the land. The road wraps around Sunset Crater and continues to the Wupatki and other smaller pueblo ruins most likely abandoned during the big cleansing, Amazing. I could almost feel the lives that ones moved within the walls. There was a kiva, and also a “ballcourt,” which was a sport played within a circular arena against neighboring tribes. It was popular amongst the Northern Mexican tribes, and is not found in other Northern tribal cultures, indicating strong interrelationships between these tribes. My favorite part of the ruin was the “Blowhole.” There are rocks built as a square surrounding about a 1ft by 1ft opening, in which cool is blowing out at a high pressure. This natural phenomenon occurs because of an underground cavern created from earthquake activity in the Kaibab Limstone bedrock. The depth, size, and shape of the cavern is unknown. Only a few have been found throughout the area. Depending upon the relationship between air pressure within the cavern and the external environmental air pressure, air is either being sucked into the blowhole or blown out. It was really amazing experiencing such a powerful natural vent. It felt like the cavern was very very deep. I had a Marilyn Monroe moment. Descendents of the people who once lived here, the Hopi call the opening “Yaapontsa,” the Wind Spirit. Absolutely.
It was a particularly inward expedience for me. I have felt quiet. Probably due to some fatigue, 7,000 feet is knocking me out, and spending so much time alone. I like it. Been reading a lot and trying to stay up on my studies. But today I feel lonely and wish I had a friend out here. I will climb the Navajo mountain of the West either tomorrow or Monday. Then head off to Kayenta. May be spending Thanksgiving on the res. There tends to be a lot of racism among the Navajo, so I hope it is not an uncomfortable situation. Then off to the Grand Canyon before my conference in Sedona. More water…I’m fading fast.
TRADITIONAL NAVAJO SONG
With your moccasins of dark cloud, come to us!
With your leggings of dark cloud, come to us!
With your skirt of dark cloud, come to us!
With your head-dress of dark cloud, come to us!
With the zigzag lightening flung over your head, come to us, soaring!
With the rainbow hanging high over your head, come to us, soaring!
With the zigzag lightening flung out high on the ends of your wings, come to us!
With the rainbow hanging high on the ends of your wings, come to us!
I have made your sacrifice,
I have prepared a smoke for you.
My feet restore for me,
My legs restore for me,
My body restore for me,
My mind restore for me,
My voice restore for me,
Today take out your spell for me.
Far off from me it is taken!
Far off you have done it!
Happily I recover!
Happily my interior becomes cool,
Happily my eyes regain their power,
Happily my head becomes cool,
Happily my legs regain their power,
Happily I hear again!
Happily for me the spell is taken off!
Happily may I walk
In beauty, I walk!
With beauty before me, I walk
With beauty behind me, I walk
With beauty below me, I walk
With beauty above me, I walk
With beauty all around me, I walk
In beauty it is finished
In beauty it is finished
In beauty it is finished
In beauty it is finished
With your leggings of dark cloud, come to us!
With your skirt of dark cloud, come to us!
With your head-dress of dark cloud, come to us!
With the zigzag lightening flung over your head, come to us, soaring!
With the rainbow hanging high over your head, come to us, soaring!
With the zigzag lightening flung out high on the ends of your wings, come to us!
With the rainbow hanging high on the ends of your wings, come to us!
I have made your sacrifice,
I have prepared a smoke for you.
My feet restore for me,
My legs restore for me,
My body restore for me,
My mind restore for me,
My voice restore for me,
Today take out your spell for me.
Far off from me it is taken!
Far off you have done it!
Happily I recover!
Happily my interior becomes cool,
Happily my eyes regain their power,
Happily my head becomes cool,
Happily my legs regain their power,
Happily I hear again!
Happily for me the spell is taken off!
Happily may I walk
In beauty, I walk!
With beauty before me, I walk
With beauty behind me, I walk
With beauty below me, I walk
With beauty above me, I walk
With beauty all around me, I walk
In beauty it is finished
In beauty it is finished
In beauty it is finished
In beauty it is finished
Wednesday, November 18, 2009
Sacred Navajo Mountain of the South: Mount Taylor - Tsoodzi/
I have ponderosa sap stuck between my teeth. Night is clear. No one needs to know where I am. But I might as well tell you anyway. Grants, NM – cowboy town. Down and West from Cochiti, San Domingo, San Felipe, Santa Anna Pueblos. Left early this morning. Slipping out in silence. Into my own atmosphere again. Returned. The spirit of adventure I forget to indulge. Playing coy. But not so. My nature is untagged and roaming. I am more wild than I thought.
So I get to Grants, headed for Mount Taylor or Tsoodzi/ pronounced Tsoodshishl. The sacred Navajo mountain of the South. The turquoise mountain. Takes me almost two hours to find the trail to the peak, after a three hour stretch from Santa Fe. Drive down route NM 139, dirt road until I am unable to overtake a snow-packed mogul. I retire. Find a perfect camp spot. Make an offering. I imagine rolling out my sleeping bag, under the stars, small fire, freezing cold, away from it all. Alone. With bears. And coyotes of course. I feel the fire in my chest burn. Eyes reveal how rabid I am. Take me to the mountain! Turns out I end up on Lobos Canyon. Apparently, I want the other NM 139. Hhhusp. (That was a patient sigh). Lets just say cheers to the men of roadside maintenance. Half hour climb, canyons emerging, praying my blue boat makes it up snowy mountain roads, trying to ignore the bumps and scrapes I hear below from rock debris. I admit looking back every so often to make sure no UFOs have been left for dead out from beneath the car.
Finally make it to the trail. Only a small sign indicates the entrance through the woods. Car parked. Alone. Almost 1:30. I cleanse with Florida water. Bright sun on my arms, cool air. My feet shuffle through snow, following footprints, dog and deer tracks. Not straight up, but steady climb up 2,000ft more. A bird welcomes me. I call back. He calls. I call. I smile. Carry my rakau – my sacred stick from New Zealand – making up for my sprained ankle. I wear turquoise around my neck. Out of shape at high altitude. Frequent stops. Higher up. Getting cold, no jacket. Each hand cups an ear while I huddle by a tree. But not so bad…Sun still filters through the aspen and pines. I carry on. Big boulders and prominent rocks covered with turquoise lichen. Everything is alive. Silent. I meet no one else. But I have me. And I will always be straight with myself, and considerate, honest, gentle, and play at my own pace. It is good to have someone holding space. I hit what I suspect as the 3/4 mark up the mountain and I feel the faint contraction of will, telling me to stop. Too hard. It is good enough. I honored the mountain already, didn’t I? But what was once humility, bowing out with grace when it is time, I am now just being weak. It can be a challenge to admit when you hear the voice reminding you how noble it can be to quit when it becomes a game. I always know the truth behind this voice, but this was a breakthrough of strong-will power, enabling me to pull through.
I ask for some medicine to help me. Then I notice a Ponderosa Pine with crystallized sap crusted to the bark. I pull of a small piece and eat it. I chew and chew. Minty, sweet pine flavor with the texture of wax. I feel a resurgence of energy. I make my way to the top. Filled with pride, gratitude, freedom, elements, health. Blood pumping. Out of breath. I see a vulture fly close by with a bald head. And I climb a rock to meet a summit. I make a tobacco offering with my prayers. A view for hundreds of miles. Sun warm. Hands numb. Infinite energy for transformation. Every story fits within the wings of the butterfly. I stand and am happy. Wind blown hair. Eyes see you and love you. The mountain tells me about roots, sap, and animals. Medicine. I become bear. Medicine Woman. I calculate the sun dropping and climb down from my perch. A “caw” from above. A raven flies! Over my head and descends low doing dips and patterns. A ceremonial presentation. I caw back and somehow it sounds just like Raven. Over and over we joyously call to each other. Sisters. She swoops low and then ascends until eventually drifting away. I received a rock on my way down. Then the same small bird chirps at me as I emerge from the edge of the woods. I love this mountain. I do not know what the Navajos say about the mountain, I call it Holy Medicine. I give thanks. Driving home. Powerful. Precise. Welcomes without condition or strain into the home of Dzi/ Tsoodzi/. Pink clouds over the town through I40. The roses bloom above this evening. Not in my mind, but my heart.
Thursday, November 12, 2009
Wednesday, November 11, 2009
Taos, NM
Rio Grande Gorge on the way to Taos, New Mexico from Colorado
Arrived in Taos yesterday afternoon. Warm, sunny. 5 hours on route. Family friend, Patti Tronolone, welcomed me. Her home an opening of creative space. The artist, healer, giver. Taos is soft. Feminine. The mountains more sloped without the Colorado peaks and mesas. Taos Mountain is known to accept you or spit you out of town. They say the veil between worlds is very thin here. It will expose your weaknesses and heal then deeply if you allow it to. Deep sadness here in the land. Patti feels it too. I have felt my heart underwater since I connected to the region. Lost in the sacred lake. Sensitivity a blessing – calling for infinite patience and emotional stability. We walked, shared visions, meditated. Patti made me a flower essence tincture to help me process the deep cries I can’t help but hear. She also gifted me a Taos stone with a painted bear of the four directions. Felt honored. Headed over to Overland Sheepskin. Stayed at Jim Leahy’s home.
Kind. Dynamic, generous wife, six year old son, Sam. Smart, mature, full of life and awareness. Loves legos. They included me for dinner and afterwards I read books to Sam in bed. All of us to sleep at 9. If you give a moose a muffin…he will want some jam. Agreed. I always found that to be a problem. Their home is 25 miles Southeast of Taos nestled within the Rio Grande mountains just by the river. Absolutely gorgeous. Having slipped in on a dark night, the morning drive enhanced the magnificence. Today I will visit the Taos Pueblo, the Church of Guadalupe, unique boutiques, and dinner with Patti. She is cooking for me and maybe I can go early and help her. She is wonderful. Delicate and silent with creativity pouring out of her. I enjoy her presence. She is working on her new Sanctuaries Project, in which through art alters and sacred spaces are constructed for healing and universal connectivity. I am deeply inspired by her ability to use art in this way. http://www.sanctuariesproject.com/ Check it out. Tenderness still pulls in me today. Feels like the heart of the Taos land suffers from past wounds. Effort to jump into any exploration here. My heart Only the first layer beginning to heal. I want to go to the Blue Lake, but only natives can go there. Pilgrimage site. I will have to ask at the Pueblo res if it is possible. I am consumed by the call to nurture the healing. Maybe it is just sadness in my self. Hard to tell anymore what is me and what is the environment. Practice whole-hearted action.
On the way to Leahy's Home from Taos
Distant view of sacred Taos Mountain
Pipe Ceremony
My last night in Mancos. Joya and Joanne performed pipe ceremony with me. I understand they learned from a Chippewa man. The stem is masculine and bowl is feminine, where the sacred tobacco is placed. Opened sacred space, acknowledges the Source, values of creation. Cleanse with sage. Then we pass the pipe. Bowl in left hand, stem in right. Payer. Aloud is most common, but I felt to pray silently. My heart ran too deep for words to breathe out. Then passed again, with all of our prayers within the pipe, circle the earth and smoke or place to your heart. I put it to my heart. Complete surrender. Tears barely retained in eyes. Gratitude. Humility. Heart. They sang a song sung during birth. I felt rebirth. Broken bud to flower. Challenging to leave the womb of silent inner experience. Beckoned to stand, and a blessing was shared for my journey and life with sage and the air strokes from an eagle feather. I was then gifted a hawk wing. The bird found in Fairfield. The wing removed and the rest buried with blessings. Such humility. Only heart. Crying heart. Embrace. Another adopted child. The Messenger has always been with me. They come in 12.
Are you listening?
A Navajo says: These sacred mountains were placed here for us. We think of them as our home, as the foundation of our Hogan and our life. There is life inside these mountains and there is life on them. This is how the sacred mountains sit for us and we adorn ourselves just as they do, with white shell, turquoise, abalone shell, black jet and other precious jewels. Our sacred mountains have always blessed us with values of good things of life. This is how they regulated our lives from the beginning. These mountains keep us healthy and strong. Because of them we grow and we have prospered. They gave us water to drink and food to eat. They gave us a home, shelter, and they dress us. This is our belief and understanding as a Diné. According to our Forefathers, understanding and beliefs, the sacred mountains were planted by the Holy People using the sacred soil that First Man brought up from the lower worlds.
The twelve Holy People formed our sacred mountains in the Fourth World. When the sacred mountains were first formed, prayers and songs were sung for positive thinking and understanding by the twelve Holy People. Talking God and Second Talking God are the spirits that are within these sacred mountains. It is said that these two Holy People went to these mountains to see to our blessings and our needs and wants. Talking God and Second Talking God were also made to stand on top of our sacred mountains to be the guides for our lives. This is how these two Holy People and our sacred mountains were made to carry out our feelings, thoughts, plans, values, good fortune, hopes, faith and love in our every day walks of life. When the sacred mountain songs were first sung and when the sacred mountain prayers were first used, it was for positive self awareness of understanding. Mountains songs and prayers were made to go clockwise from East to North and back to the East.
This final sentence served as an important confirmation for me. My itinerary for the six week journey was always tentative, although I felt to move from Mancos West into Arizona, then travel through New Mexico and end in Sedona for a conference. This counterclockwise circle felt the most opened. Once I arrived and realized the accessibility the four sacred mountains were by car, and stepped foot on the Northern mountain, I felt a commitment solidified to honor all four corners. At this point it mist be done properly. It says here to go clockwise from “East to North and back to the East.” I actually passed in view the Eastern Mountain, Blanca Peak, on my way to Mancos through Colorado. I have visited the North Mountain, and upon my return to Iowa, I plan to stop and acknowledge again the Eastern Mountain. To complete the instruction I have been forced to travel clockwise. Both of my most concrete plants will not be possible until later in the month. James Nez, a Navajo man in Kayenta, AZ, whom I was supposed to visit on the 10th, came down with a cold. And my contact in Flagstaff, who welcomed me to stay “anytime”, may need to fly out of town on the 10th due to family emergency. My contacts in Taos and Santa Fe immediately welcomed me last minute and actually prefer my visit now, as they will be busy or out of town in the next couple weeks. This will force me to visit the Sacred Mountain of the South, then West and complete with the East. The order and guidance of nature is humbling and relieving. I’m off to Taos tomorrow!!
The twelve Holy People formed our sacred mountains in the Fourth World. When the sacred mountains were first formed, prayers and songs were sung for positive thinking and understanding by the twelve Holy People. Talking God and Second Talking God are the spirits that are within these sacred mountains. It is said that these two Holy People went to these mountains to see to our blessings and our needs and wants. Talking God and Second Talking God were also made to stand on top of our sacred mountains to be the guides for our lives. This is how these two Holy People and our sacred mountains were made to carry out our feelings, thoughts, plans, values, good fortune, hopes, faith and love in our every day walks of life. When the sacred mountain songs were first sung and when the sacred mountain prayers were first used, it was for positive self awareness of understanding. Mountains songs and prayers were made to go clockwise from East to North and back to the East.
This final sentence served as an important confirmation for me. My itinerary for the six week journey was always tentative, although I felt to move from Mancos West into Arizona, then travel through New Mexico and end in Sedona for a conference. This counterclockwise circle felt the most opened. Once I arrived and realized the accessibility the four sacred mountains were by car, and stepped foot on the Northern mountain, I felt a commitment solidified to honor all four corners. At this point it mist be done properly. It says here to go clockwise from “East to North and back to the East.” I actually passed in view the Eastern Mountain, Blanca Peak, on my way to Mancos through Colorado. I have visited the North Mountain, and upon my return to Iowa, I plan to stop and acknowledge again the Eastern Mountain. To complete the instruction I have been forced to travel clockwise. Both of my most concrete plants will not be possible until later in the month. James Nez, a Navajo man in Kayenta, AZ, whom I was supposed to visit on the 10th, came down with a cold. And my contact in Flagstaff, who welcomed me to stay “anytime”, may need to fly out of town on the 10th due to family emergency. My contacts in Taos and Santa Fe immediately welcomed me last minute and actually prefer my visit now, as they will be busy or out of town in the next couple weeks. This will force me to visit the Sacred Mountain of the South, then West and complete with the East. The order and guidance of nature is humbling and relieving. I’m off to Taos tomorrow!!
The Four Sacred Dine Mountains
The Navajo people believe that the Creator placed them on land between four sacred mountains: According to their own history, the Navajos have always lived between these mountains. The Navajo people have been instructed by the Creator never to leave their sacred homeland. The four points represent the four cardinal directions:
* Mount Blanca (Tsisnaasjini' - Dawn or White Shell Mountain)
Sacred Mountain of the East - near Alamosa in San Luis Valley, Colorado.
*Mount Taylor (Tsoodzil - Blue Bead or Turquoise Mountain) Sacred Mountain of the South - north of Laguna, New Mexico.
* San Francisco Peaks (Doko'oosliid - Abalone Shell Mountain) Sacred Mountain of the West - near Flagstaff, Arizona.
* Mount Hesperus (Dibé Nitsaa - Big Mountain Sheep) Sacred Mountain of the North - La Plata Mountains, Colorado.
The following inner mountains within the borders formed by the 4 sacred mountains are also held as sacred because of their importance in Navajo mythology:
*Huerfano Mesa (Dzil Na'oodilii) - Holy People (Navajo Deities) Encircling Mountain
Sacred Mountain of the Center, 60 miles southeast of Bloomfield, New Mexico. This is where Changing Woman received her puberty, gave birth to her warrior twins, and lived in the first hogan. It is considered to be the "lungs" of Navajo country.
* Gobernador Knob (Ch'oolii) Sacred Mountain East of Center in Old Navajoland (Dinetah), near and southeast of the Navajo Dam. This is where Changing Woman was found. It is considered to be the "heart" of Navajo country.
* Navajo Mountain (Naatsis'áán) - Head of the Earth, Southeast Utah
* Grand Canyon is considered to be from where creation emerged. It is the Source in landform.
The Navajo family's dwelling, the hogan, is a microcosm of their homeland. The posts of the hogan represent the four sacred mountains. A traditional hogan is constructed of logs, bark, and packed earth in a round dome-roofed shape, according to instructions found in the Navajo creation story. The sections of the Hogan correspond to the structures of the universe, for instance, the earthen floor represents Mother Earth and the round roof symbolizes Father Sky. A Hogan can never be abandoned unless it is struck by lightning or someone dies in it from a cause other than old age. _The Hogan is the site for all religious ceremonies, which sanctify it through use. The Hogan constitutes one of the most sacred places for the members of a Navajo family and binds them to the land of their birth.
http://www.xpressweb.com/zionpark/index3.html
* Mount Blanca (Tsisnaasjini' - Dawn or White Shell Mountain)
Sacred Mountain of the East - near Alamosa in San Luis Valley, Colorado.
*Mount Taylor (Tsoodzil - Blue Bead or Turquoise Mountain) Sacred Mountain of the South - north of Laguna, New Mexico.
* San Francisco Peaks (Doko'oosliid - Abalone Shell Mountain) Sacred Mountain of the West - near Flagstaff, Arizona.
* Mount Hesperus (Dibé Nitsaa - Big Mountain Sheep) Sacred Mountain of the North - La Plata Mountains, Colorado.
The following inner mountains within the borders formed by the 4 sacred mountains are also held as sacred because of their importance in Navajo mythology:
*Huerfano Mesa (Dzil Na'oodilii) - Holy People (Navajo Deities) Encircling Mountain
Sacred Mountain of the Center, 60 miles southeast of Bloomfield, New Mexico. This is where Changing Woman received her puberty, gave birth to her warrior twins, and lived in the first hogan. It is considered to be the "lungs" of Navajo country.
* Gobernador Knob (Ch'oolii) Sacred Mountain East of Center in Old Navajoland (Dinetah), near and southeast of the Navajo Dam. This is where Changing Woman was found. It is considered to be the "heart" of Navajo country.
* Navajo Mountain (Naatsis'áán) - Head of the Earth, Southeast Utah
* Grand Canyon is considered to be from where creation emerged. It is the Source in landform.
The Navajo family's dwelling, the hogan, is a microcosm of their homeland. The posts of the hogan represent the four sacred mountains. A traditional hogan is constructed of logs, bark, and packed earth in a round dome-roofed shape, according to instructions found in the Navajo creation story. The sections of the Hogan correspond to the structures of the universe, for instance, the earthen floor represents Mother Earth and the round roof symbolizes Father Sky. A Hogan can never be abandoned unless it is struck by lightning or someone dies in it from a cause other than old age. _The Hogan is the site for all religious ceremonies, which sanctify it through use. The Hogan constitutes one of the most sacred places for the members of a Navajo family and binds them to the land of their birth.
http://www.xpressweb.com/zionpark/index3.html
Sacred Navajo Mountain of the North: Mount Hesperus or Dibé Nitsaa, CO
I felt them with me the most present since my arrival to the Southwest. I felt them behind me up above. But my eyes did not see anyone. I came upon Joya as she stood, tears in her eyes. Unifying and letting go of mother. We embraced and walked together softly to the car. Our gratitude left behind and carried with us up further to the aspen grove. The sun casting long shadows on the road.
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Trees reaching far overhead. Tall pillars. Car stopped, running up the road, through the trees. This is where the wild things are. Completion. The snow up ahead prevented travel any further up to the peak or even just to where the shale stone begins. Joya said she felt there were bear dens by the shale. Introspection before pure Shhhhhh. Rode home in silence to the bakery for lunch. Break fast.
Durango, CO
Saturday a jaunt to town. Durango is a sweet, high end, tight-knit, mountain town with hipsters speckled about on street corners, mountain bikes, or trapped in a snowboard and snow drifts. By chance stumbled into the “Herb Lady,” where she was selling homemade herbs, spices, oils, dressings and jams for a few dollars. Awesome. Mountain bike shop. My eyes so wide. Went to Himalayan restaurant for lunch. Tibetan, Nepalese, and Indian food, which they pray over. Tasted so pure and satisfying. I came alive again. Beautiful Tibetan owners. Then a free stretch in the local hot springs. Lets just say we have connections…Went back to the house, cooked, and sat in story for hours. Photographs. I got lost back in Aotearoa New Zealand. The fondest memories. Light-hearted day.
Environmental Awareness
There are natural gas wells in the San Juan basin - South of Durango into New Mexico past Gobernador Knob. It significantly impacts the air quality due to the poisonous fumes they emit once dug into and exposed. Truck traffic adds to pollution and social imposition. Because of the economic downfall, some sites have closed down and there is less production. Government agencies, however, have continually failed to regulate ground level ozone – key ingredients of smog, and these agencies continue to grant more leases for additional oil and gas wells. There are more than 20,000 oil and gas wells in the San Juan basin and companies plan to expose 15,000 more. The EPA may be forced to address the air quality in the regions.
There are also two coal burning power plants between Shiprock and Farmington. Another in Navajo Country in Arizona. The plants are dirty, unfiltered, without scrubbing. Coal mining is done right near the power plant. One of these plants is approximately the second most polluting in the United States. It effects air quality for miles. Ute Mountain Ute people living West of Cortez, Colorado, have set their own air quality standards, but have not yet been able to bring about governmental cooperation. The San Juan power plant East of Shiprock has emitted 14,500 tons of sulfur dioxide in one year. 25,000 tons of nitrogen oxide, and 750lbs of Mercury has been released into the air. Vallecito is a reservoir NE of Durango that tested positive for elevated levels of mercury, in which Navajo and Ute people were warned in 2006 to retreat from fishing large catch.
Uranium mining has been done on the Navajo reservation and other tribal areas. Many Navajos of my grandparent’s generation were those performing mining labor. 4 million tons of uranium has been extracted in the past several decades. Many Navajos have suffered repercussive illnesses or death. Left over rocks from the mines was used to build houses, and many Navajo homes will be demolished and reconstructed this upcoming year. The EPA is determining whether or not the uranium mining corporations can be held responsible for the fatalities and negative health effects.
Usually problematic in urban centers, the four corners have been facing comparable levels of air pollution. Each of these issues culminates into an acute overload environmental contamination. San Juan County, New Mexico, home to the Navajo and Apache tribes as well as all residents of Farmington, is “currently on the brink of violating federal health limits for ozone air pollution. If the region falls into violation of federal limits, the largely rural region will be declared ‘dirty air’ area, a designation usually reserved for cities like Los Angeles and Houston” (Wild Earth Guardians). If the levels continue to rise, the government will be forced to address the issue of industrial activity.
There are also two coal burning power plants between Shiprock and Farmington. Another in Navajo Country in Arizona. The plants are dirty, unfiltered, without scrubbing. Coal mining is done right near the power plant. One of these plants is approximately the second most polluting in the United States. It effects air quality for miles. Ute Mountain Ute people living West of Cortez, Colorado, have set their own air quality standards, but have not yet been able to bring about governmental cooperation. The San Juan power plant East of Shiprock has emitted 14,500 tons of sulfur dioxide in one year. 25,000 tons of nitrogen oxide, and 750lbs of Mercury has been released into the air. Vallecito is a reservoir NE of Durango that tested positive for elevated levels of mercury, in which Navajo and Ute people were warned in 2006 to retreat from fishing large catch.
Uranium mining has been done on the Navajo reservation and other tribal areas. Many Navajos of my grandparent’s generation were those performing mining labor. 4 million tons of uranium has been extracted in the past several decades. Many Navajos have suffered repercussive illnesses or death. Left over rocks from the mines was used to build houses, and many Navajo homes will be demolished and reconstructed this upcoming year. The EPA is determining whether or not the uranium mining corporations can be held responsible for the fatalities and negative health effects.
Usually problematic in urban centers, the four corners have been facing comparable levels of air pollution. Each of these issues culminates into an acute overload environmental contamination. San Juan County, New Mexico, home to the Navajo and Apache tribes as well as all residents of Farmington, is “currently on the brink of violating federal health limits for ozone air pollution. If the region falls into violation of federal limits, the largely rural region will be declared ‘dirty air’ area, a designation usually reserved for cities like Los Angeles and Houston” (Wild Earth Guardians). If the levels continue to rise, the government will be forced to address the issue of industrial activity.
Navajo Country and Sand Painting, Shiprock NM
Friday, Joya invited me to the Nataani Nez Navajo Elementary School in Shiprock, New Mexico where she teaches art to the little ones. About an hour Southeast from Mancos. I was privileged to meet a Navajo sand painter named Eugene Baatsoslanii Joe, a friend of Joya's. He came to teach the 3rd graders about how to make a sand painting. Turns out my skills meet such a level. My pride remains intact. Haha. Yeah…so good Mr. Joe shared about the history of sand painting. It developed as a ceremonial practice created only within the sanctity of the hogans. Hogans are eight-sided structures, in which Navajo perform healing and ceremony. In 1958 in Sheepspring New Mexico, Fred Stevens was the first Navajo sand artist. Stevens is Eugene’s clan uncle. Clan identity remains to be of central importance to most if not all Navajo people. Joya explained it is not uncommon for those of different clans to create social walls between each other. The second artisan to learn sand painting was the couple Francis and Patsy Miller, who painted on ply wood. The base material of ply wood, transitioned to press wood, and now is replaced by masonite. Eugene’s father was the next to adopt the art form. His name was James C. Joe. He was half Navajo and half Zuni. A very spiritual man. Incorporating Navajo myth and symbolism, the sand paintings are used to enliven strength, health, prosperity and remedy many other forms of physical, mental, emotional and spiritual ailments. Each painting traditionally evolves within a four day period. Eugene learned from his father and described how he paid his dues before being initiated into the practice. He first learned discipline - sweeping floors, preparing the sand with an old-fashioned meat grinder. Hard work. As his father, James C. Joe, began to expand his art through what we call “creative license,” many traditionalists denounced his work as secular. He placed symbols differently and used colors based more on preference and aesthetic taste. He may also have painted outside the hogan, which would have heightened controversy. In effect James Joe accepted their criticism and stepped out of the ceremonial realm of sacred art. Eugene was therefore taught sand painting more as an art form than an expression of healing. Controversy continues to surround the issue, even in an elementary school classroom. Eugene is, however, known as one of the most accomplished sand painters in that region of Navajo country. He is hoping to further is expression though contemporary sand art. I had the opportunity to speak with him after the lesson as I finished my small painting on a paper plate. I learned a lot that day about the incredible symbolism that upholds Navajo spirituality. The six directions. The importance of remaining in tune with spiritual preparation before we blossom in our life path. Connect the dots first. The value of age in wisdom. And the prejudices that many Navajo still carry against white people. The history still burned in tribal memory, and the bitterness that white people owe something. Many want to be gifted and given material goods. He eyed my Peruvian necklace with the hunger for a gift. Even a hint for a gift of honor. As I sat there with total respect, love, and gratitude, he tried to degrade me and threw in sour humor about Joya, as she cleaned up after the kids. He is a talented and fun-loving man, and I still enjoyed the meeting. Other teachers I met were more opened and a couple endearing. I was able to speak with the Navajo language teacher, who taught me to say the “shl” sound properly. Thank God. Not an easy one. As we left for the day we acknowledged the great mythological bird, who flew into the ground. His wing still sticks up, and many call the amazing rock formation a ship, thus the name Shiprock.
Before I knew the significance of Gobernador Knob, I knew it was important to visit. In fact, one of the few places I was dedicated to make the trip down the enigmatic road the googlemaps refused to disclose. It is relatively close to Shiprock in northwest New Mexico. I planned to stay the night in Shiprock and visit the Mountain early on Saturday. However, Joya and Joanne explained how there is not a way by road in which to access the mountain, (that is, assuming that you find the road to it at all). They, themselves, only made it so far down the bumpy road until they saw the peak from afar, barely towering over the surrounding mountains. I now understand the role of Gobernador Knob (Spruce Mountain) as the birthplace of the Navajo Goddess, Changing Woman. She was found at the hump at the end of Spruce Hill, a steep little rise of ninety or a hundred feet. Her name comes from the cycle of changes in her age: young in the spring, mature in the late summer, old in winter, and young again the following spring. Gobernador Knob is a small and especially sacred mountain, which is considered to be the heart of Navajo country. I realized that I could access the site energetically, while my feet remain here in Mancos. There is always a way around natural gas wells. What I mean by that tangential statement is the hundreds of wells dug around the sacred Knob and throughout the Navajo country of New Mexico, usurping nature’s gifts, causing ecological imbalance, and producing high levels of air pollution…Honor the “heart” with greater potency than the suffocation of toxic fumes.
Before I knew the significance of Gobernador Knob, I knew it was important to visit. In fact, one of the few places I was dedicated to make the trip down the enigmatic road the googlemaps refused to disclose. It is relatively close to Shiprock in northwest New Mexico. I planned to stay the night in Shiprock and visit the Mountain early on Saturday. However, Joya and Joanne explained how there is not a way by road in which to access the mountain, (that is, assuming that you find the road to it at all). They, themselves, only made it so far down the bumpy road until they saw the peak from afar, barely towering over the surrounding mountains. I now understand the role of Gobernador Knob (Spruce Mountain) as the birthplace of the Navajo Goddess, Changing Woman. She was found at the hump at the end of Spruce Hill, a steep little rise of ninety or a hundred feet. Her name comes from the cycle of changes in her age: young in the spring, mature in the late summer, old in winter, and young again the following spring. Gobernador Knob is a small and especially sacred mountain, which is considered to be the heart of Navajo country. I realized that I could access the site energetically, while my feet remain here in Mancos. There is always a way around natural gas wells. What I mean by that tangential statement is the hundreds of wells dug around the sacred Knob and throughout the Navajo country of New Mexico, usurping nature’s gifts, causing ecological imbalance, and producing high levels of air pollution…Honor the “heart” with greater potency than the suffocation of toxic fumes.
Mesa Verde, CO
My first day in the Southwest Joanne took me up to Mesa Verde. Over 8,000 feet up. It is considered an ancestral homeland for the Pueblo people, which exclude the Navajo tribe. Anasazi is the name used for all the ancestral tribes of the Southwest. The Pueblo have largely diverse cultures, languages, histories, ceremonies. Pueblo people lived together in towns and were farming people. Mesa Verde was abandoned in the 1300’s. There continues to be speculation about why they relocated to other communities. A common understanding is due to drought. They lived up on the mesa because the land was fertile for growing corn. Many kivas remain, some having been excavated. They are deep circular pits with stonewalls of layered rock. They are used for ceremony. Joanne felt that Pueblo people likely still go up there and do ceremony. Not a day for cameras. Initial welcome. Full attention, full respect. We cleansed with Florida water, and I offered qoqa leaves with prayer, dropped into the kiva. We sat by the reservoir in silence for a long time. A large circular space, the bottom once packed down clay and filled with water. I walked bare foot around the perimeter three times and sat on the ground inside the waterless reservoir. A day of purification. My head cold drying up in the burning sun. Preparation for the journey. The peace up there was tangible. Many petroglyphs have been found in the area. Joanne took off for the research center, while I walked the Petroglyph Trail only a 2.2 mile hike. Not another visitor passed me by. Beautiful. Snaking around the perimeter of the ridge over looking a valley. Rich colors of rock. Juniper and pine trees. Sage bushes. More Qoqa offerings. Peace. Back to the house.
November 3rd and 4th. I drove 18 hours from Fairfield Iowa to Mancos Colorado. The rise of altitude. A head cold for company. Great music. Straight shot through Nebraska. Winding through the Colorado mountains. Joya and Joanne are a couple, who live in Mancos Colorado. They received me with open arms, and have made me feel more than at home. The journey begins.
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