Sunday, November 29, 2009

FLASHBACK!!! Back to Taos, NM...

Thursday November 12th 2009 Taos Pueblo

Completely Magical.
Sat at Loka’s Café, working on my blog. Felt tense, sadness. I tried to shake off my uneasy feelings by taking the walking path around the park behind Kit Carson. Came across a cemetery of great Taos leaders. I stopped in my tracks. A sign read of the fear that swept the people when New Mexico was being annexed by the United States. They were afraid that their land would be taken. Not only the natives, who held agreements only with Mexico, I realized also the Mexicans of that area must also have been fearful to become part of the U.S. as well, with lower status, potential social marginalization and economic oppression. It was beginning to make sense why I felt fear and division between natives, whites, and the Spanish.
After driving by again and again, drawn in, I finally stopped at a gem shop down the road. Spent over an hour in there. I decided that when I visit the Taos Pueblo, I would give a gift to someone and it would help dissipate division felt by the people and the land. Finally found that one piece with the perfect qualities. It was the only one of its kind, no marked price. It helped to dissipate all the intense energy in the environment and myself. On my way to Patti Tronolone’s house for dinner, I stopped at Our Lady of Guadalupe Church. A famous site, yet unassuming, sitting amongst the adobe homes and opened shops. I entered. The new stone in hand. Silent. Heavy air with sacredness. Only one there – empty. Large stain glass windows, catching the light of the setting sun. A place to honor Mother Mary, the Black and White Madonna. I stood before the front of the church, then back of the church. I sat at pew and meditated. The last few rays illuminating the spot I sat. Then prayed over the stone. The White people are of the mind, of consciousness. Too much ego. Taos Pueblo – of Earth, some sadness. Latin Americans – heart, some closedness. Bring all back into balance. Share gifts with other groups. Cleansing. Silence. Neutralizing. Must give stone to someone at Pueblo tomorrow. Called to the lake. Worked with it. Want to go even though prohibited. I refer to the sacred Blue Lake. I didn’t know anything about it. All I knew is that I felt it, I am drawn, and it is not opened to outsiders. I made my way to Patti’s home. Delicious, homemade dinner. Great sharing. So tired. Long day. 45 minutes to the Leahy’s house. Drag myself to bed.

Thursday morning, talked to mom. Old karma for me at Pueblo. Would probably gift to young man rather than elder. She felt I would go to lake. The Taos people are the only Pueblo tribe that has not been dislocated from their land. The sacred Taos Mountain with Blue Lake, Deer Lake, Turtle Lake, Eagle’s Nest were taken from them by the American government until about 1972. Many Taos leaders fought their whole lives to return these places to their people. They have been living by many of the old ways still. They pilgrimage on horse or by foot to do ceremony on the mountain. They speak Tiwa, which they have safeguarded by refusing to create a written language out of it. The Pueblo is dwindling in size year after year, as the youth choose to explore cities other towns of greater economic and occupational opportunity, social diversity, and a time of independence. So as I arrived, I registered, was greeted warmly, and was left to wander around and look around the res on a self-guided tour. I thought how am I ever going to find the person I need to meet?? I didn’t feel like walking around and seeing. I wanted to feel and to connect with the land and the people. I felt the impulse to remove my shoes because I would call this sacred ground. At least to me and how I felt walking it. It felt gentler there. More heart than non-Indian territory. As I walk without my shoes, somehow everyone becomes interested. Who is this girl? Soon I approached by a man who asked, “Hey, didn’t I see you at Loka’s café yesterday?” I was impressed he remembered. He said he is an artist and to come check out his gallery a couple pueblos down. Then he pointed to a man selling jewelry at a table. He pointed, that guy wants to know why you aren’t wearing any shoes. So I went over. He asked me questions and I gave him short, simple answers. Then he invited me to sit down by him and he wanted to know more. So I talked about the land. I had tears held back. We talked about healing. His name is Raphael, is 42 years old, divorced and cheated on, and has two boys just a few years younger than me. He is full Taos of the Red Willow Clan and grew up with all the ceremonial ways. Is a drummer and sings traditional songs as well. He lived in NYC for seven years, but has returned to his homeland. He wants to take his boys to NY with him after the younger one graduates high school, so that they can explore life some more off the res. So we had a heart to heart. He understood where I was coming from. He wanted to see the stone I was carrying, so I handed it over. I said it was for him and told him how I brought it to give to someone here and he must be the one. He was very pleased. I mentioned how I was drawn to the Blue Lake, he asked how I knew about it, and asked me poignant questions. He asked what I was doing after this and he offered to show me around the tribal areas. Many people say the Taos are very protective about their ways and sharing them. I did not find this to be true during my visit. Raphael said he also had something to give me. I smiled. After he packed up and I sat by the river for some time, we went over to his family pueblo, where I met his mother and sister. His mother was sewing and invited me to sit down. They were pretty opened. He grabbed a couple things and dragged me back out to my car. He told me where to drive and we circled the sacred Taos Mountain. He explained that he could not take me to the Blue Lake because it is up on the Taos Mountain and there are no roads to get there. Only by horse and foot. But he showed me Eagle’s Nest Lake. We pulled the car over and he pointed out where Blue Lake was on the Mountain. Raphael put on a CD of old ceremonial, prayer songs they still sing today. The recording was of his Great-Uncle and his Grandfather singing in 1952. Beautiful. We drove on and he told me about the traditional races. About why they don’t celebrate Halloween. And, he described his experiences on the East coast, being invited to powwows held only by white people. He did not have a problem with that and it surprised me. In fact, it made me a little uneasy. I am conscientious about ceremonies being conducted properly. Perhaps I am a bit of an old traditionalist. He grew up with the old ways and told me many things. I will not discuss them here because he told me to keep it private. Raphael invited me to come back during their ceremonial times this winter. The deer dance and the turtle dance. I would love to. He gifted me a Kachina with two bears carved and mounted on cedar. He said it would keep me safe. I was also gifted the CD of his elders singing the old prayers. So grateful. We stopped by the river and we did a small ceremony. He brought his sage. We smudged with my Condor feather. I offered tobacco by the river. We finished our drive around the mountain; he played his drum and sang ceremonial songs all the way back. I have been blessed. He wants to be in touch, and called me on Thanksgiving. I felt at home at the Taos Pueblo. I’ll be back.


The Navajo Mountain of the West: Mount Humphreys or Doko'oosliid

Monday, November 23rd 2009




Emotions running high the past couple days. Body aching to find a opening for saddness to escape. Deep pain, letting go, moving on. I am delicate. Acceptance. And strong. Patience. A time of water, cleansing, healing the emotional body, the mountain that teaches of these things.

Doko'ooslid traslates as "was adorned with abalone shell." The Same Holy People replanted the Western Mountain in the Forth World the same as the North, East and South Mountain except that they dressed and decoreated this mountain with abalone shell to create understanding of our social unity and life (lina). Doko'ooslid was tied to the earth with a sunbeam by the Holy People. These are the holy people told to live in the mountain.

Doko'ooslid sustains the highest peak in Arizona at approximately 12,000 feet. This time of year with the ice and snow, few people climb, and even fewer attempt reaching the peak. I left Flagstaff for the sacred mountain at 10:30am and was unable to begin my walk until nearly 1pm. My directions were unclear, finding myself out by Sunset Crater, returned to downtown Flagstaff and took off toward the Crand Canyon. The entrace to Mount Humphreys is called Snow Bowl. The turn off was much closer than I thought and I sped of miles down the road. My mishaps stopped me near a small, odd shaped church. A couple sat inside holding each other, gazing out the rear, glass wall into the vast landscape.


Down the road. A red jeep, broken down, roadside, the hood propped up. Car trouble. Pulling over to ask where to find Snow Bowl, the guys pointed me back from which I came. They were two Frenchmen, having rented a jeep in Las Vegas, were now flustered with electrical problems. Or so they thought. I said I had jumper cables. They were doubtful, but we gave it a try...Viola! Fix em up. I spit off a little French for my own pleasure. They spoke English well. So alas, I pull into the parking lot of the Western Mountain! Empty ski lifts sloped down the mountain; not quite enough snow for the season to begin. There has also been controversy surrounding the artificial production of snow. The water being used is coming from recycled city water - i.e. sewer sludge. Many locals, particularly natives, are concerned with the detriment of environmental pollution.

Emotion still tender, but by the time I was swallowed by the mountain, I was more integrated. Packed up my sacred objects, Florida water, down jacket, hat, gloves, trail mix, what little water I had left, and the water offering I had collected the previous day from Eldon Springs - a brother mountain. Sidenote: When I went to Eldon Springs, I sat by a Ponderosa Pine to meditate. As I closed my eyes, healing my heart, the emotions, bees began to emerge. There were about 6 or 7 that crawled all over me, buzzing in my face, crawling over the bottle of water I collected. I asked them not to harm me, but to help me integrate and heal. Fifiteen minutes later they continued to work. I was ready to go, so I asked them to please leave and I thanked them for their assistance. Immediately they left, and two reamined on the water bottle as I carried it to the car. Then just one bee. Then none. I felt better.

Back to the mountain...I study the trail map. To my concern, it was unclear if the easy-hiking "Kachina Trail" is really on Mount Humphreys or simply nearby. What to do. I decided it was better to hike just a little ways on the "treaturous" Humphreys Peak Trail and make my offering on the proper mountain. With nearly an empty stomach, I begin the climb at 10,000 feet. Birds call, there is already snow on the ground from the getgo, but softened from the minimal rays illuminating portions of trail. Frequent stops. Cold air in my lungs. Gaspping for breath. I hike for 45mins. A guys from the area, but has been living in Chicago, emerged on the scene. We ended up walking the entire day together. Both Kenny and I were looking forward to the solo hike, but with the weather conditions, altitude, and test of enduarance, we banned together. He was not very spiritual, which changed the value of the journey. But I didn't question. Now I understand that is was more about social unity than anything else. Mountain teaches. Off we go, at a rapid pace, twisting around ridgeback after ridgeback. Higher and higher. He ledc the way. I thought about emotions. Women rely on men too much. But this walk reminded me that we must take responsibility for oursleves, process emotions alone, and then can be guided by the male. We must always digest our own experiences, but are meant to return to the stability of social solidarity. We stop only once. Expansive view!





My thighs burn, breath short but we carry on. Two hours later, a sign appearsmarking 11,400 feet. We break soon after, share a snack. I'm short on water. A crow swoops low again and again. Circling above. I signal back with delight. The guy was creeped out by the crow. I thought it was strange. We move on, talking with the few who are on their way down. Some went to the top others didn't attempt. They said it was really steep, icy, cold, windy, and nothing to hold on to. The altitude began to hit us and our legs wobbled, focused not to misstep. We felt weak, but I came with much optimism. We knew it was impossible to make it to the peak since we began so late in the day. I knew we would have done it otherwise, and quickly shook off out dissapointment. As late afternoon subdued the sun, it became cold. My toes numb. We surrendered a mile from the peak. He ate, and I offered tobacco, florida water, prayer, and the spring water that I brought. I offered Kenny some tobacco to add his own prayer if he wanted. The setting sun hit the rocks and mountains below. Illuminating everything with warmth and beauty. Took photos. A feeling came over me. Time to go...I knew that the last ten to fifteen minutes to the car would be in the dark night. Neither of us carried a flashlight. "Come on!" I led the way back down. The thickening ice, stones, sticks, and steepness prevented us from going to quickly, although I wasted no time. Kenny and I thanked each other for the company. He admited to having fear of getting stuck out there alone and dying, like he read in a classic novel, the author having escaped my memory. I found that interesting. I am not afraid of being alone in nature. I do not feel alone. I feel protected. So the sun setted fast, and it was a long way down. The ice became increasingy invisible. I indicated which steps were slick either by word or by falling. Both of us were slipping and catching oursleves gracefully, even if fully slammed down - ass to ice. I commented how falling on ice is like being tossed by ocean waves. You cannot resist the element of water. Go with it, you will not get hurt, but resist, and injury occurs. Same with emotions. Roll with it, they reslease. Resist, and they are stored away, toxifying the organs. Frozen water teaches the way flowing water does.
Thank God for my rakau giving me stability, strength, and way to poke at the ice. Darkness filled the forest as we enter the lower regions where the trees grow densely and light is blocked from the trail. The softened snow now frozen. I feel the pressure. Faster faster. We cannot negotiate this trial in the dark. Only one third of the moon tonight. Not quite enough. We are silent, our hearts beating faster, and I can almost hear our minds aloud so focused saying, "Here, here, ok, rock, slippery, here, here, faster, dark, here, here." We direct our feet. Only a few colors spark between trees as we finally emerge onto the open trail without snow, out of the forest. I was tired. But also glad we were the last ones up there and came back hidden behind the unknown veil of night. I led us back to our cars. I gave Kenny a hug. He was stiff. We waved, smiled, and took of on our warm cars. My fingers and toes thawing. So tired, my muscles stressed. Emotions settled, cleansed. I return to Tharon and Andrea's. Cook dinner. Watch Heroes. Bed. The night still with me, the mountain a unique, unexpected expedition. Happy.



Lady Moon, Venus, and a thread of light speeding by...

Saturday, November 28, 2009

Soundtrack

Jolie Holland - Damn Shame
JJ - Intermezzo
Bon Iver - Blood Bank
Manu Chao - Dia Luna...Dia Pena
Bob Dylan - Girl from the North Country
Bonnie Prince Billy - I See a Darkness
Karen O and the Kids - Heads Up
Phoenix - Litzomania
The Shirelles - Mama Said
Bob Marley - The Lord Will Make a Way Somehow
Yungchen Lhamo - Lbasa

Trevor and Sara!! Play it again.

Sunday, November 22, 2009

Sunset Crater and Wupatki Ruins


I arrived in Flagstaff, AZ on Thursday. Staying with Darjaal’s brother and his girlfriend. Cozy place. Clean, (big guest bed :), and a wood burning stove. They are generous and laid back people. I have felt at home. Two Basset Hounds – Quincy and Ella don’t Smella. We have become pals. Tharon is a mechanic and works on motorcycles. He has about 10 in the garage at the house. Some really cool antique ones. Very strange though, while I was driving out here from Grants, NM, I had this – first time in my life – desire to ride on the back of a motorcycle. I decided when I got to Flagstaff I would meet some guy who would give me a ride. Done deal. I am not sure if my mouth was hanging opened as Tharon described his line of work. Andrea, his lady, works in real estate. And it’s a wonder how she is so mellow. I’m am not sure if I have ever met a real estate agent who still had her wits. Cooked dinner for us all last night after a long day on the land…

Yesterday I went to Sunset Crater and the Wupatki Ruins. They are part of the sacred San Francisco Peak range for Navajo and Pueblo people. The range emerged into its present-day form due to most recent volcanic eruption in Arizona occurring 1,000 years ago. Based upon archeological excavation, it appears that the local people were aware of the oncoming eruption from unusual animal activity, increased heat from the earth, or episodes of prior earthquake activity. By the time the lava poured from the sites, the local people had already relocated. Mount Humphreys, Mount Eldon, Mount Agassi, and Mount……? Are the four main mountains, once mesas, now built up into rocky peaks due to the shifting of the tectonic plates. Mount Humphreys is known as the sacred Navajo mountain of the West, and is the highest peak in Arizona at approximately 12,330 feet. I was hoping to climb to the peak this weekend, but from online sources and first-hand experiences, the Humphreys Peak Trail it is treacherous, rocky, straight up, and so cold and windy at the top that some had to crawl the last two miles. The only time of year conducive to the climb is early autumn. I reluctantly will take another trail on the mountain. Sunset Crater is known by the Hopis as the place from which the ancestors return from. The underworld, the place of the ancestors is described by many cultures to be inside volcanoes or underground. Since the crater exposes cooled molten lava from deep within the earth, it makes sense that it would connect this world and that of the afterlife. The site is also a cleansed place because of the destruction and regeneration that occurred. It is a very grounding place with presence and otherworldliness. The Sunset Crater Mountain itself almost jumps out at you like a pop up children’s book. Unusual cooled molten rock formations are accompanied by trees twisted , burnt, or partially rejuvenated. Many trees looked like Kachinas or nature guardian spirits. One looked like a bird being dressed in ceremonial attire, praying with arms out over the land. The road wraps around Sunset Crater and continues to the Wupatki and other smaller pueblo ruins most likely abandoned during the big cleansing, Amazing. I could almost feel the lives that ones moved within the walls. There was a kiva, and also a “ballcourt,” which was a sport played within a circular arena against neighboring tribes. It was popular amongst the Northern Mexican tribes, and is not found in other Northern tribal cultures, indicating strong interrelationships between these tribes. My favorite part of the ruin was the “Blowhole.” There are rocks built as a square surrounding about a 1ft by 1ft opening, in which cool is blowing out at a high pressure. This natural phenomenon occurs because of an underground cavern created from earthquake activity in the Kaibab Limstone bedrock. The depth, size, and shape of the cavern is unknown. Only a few have been found throughout the area. Depending upon the relationship between air pressure within the cavern and the external environmental air pressure, air is either being sucked into the blowhole or blown out. It was really amazing experiencing such a powerful natural vent. It felt like the cavern was very very deep. I had a Marilyn Monroe moment. Descendents of the people who once lived here, the Hopi call the opening “Yaapontsa,” the Wind Spirit. Absolutely.




It was a particularly inward expedience for me. I have felt quiet. Probably due to some fatigue, 7,000 feet is knocking me out, and spending so much time alone. I like it. Been reading a lot and trying to stay up on my studies. But today I feel lonely and wish I had a friend out here. I will climb the Navajo mountain of the West either tomorrow or Monday. Then head off to Kayenta. May be spending Thanksgiving on the res. There tends to be a lot of racism among the Navajo, so I hope it is not an uncomfortable situation. Then off to the Grand Canyon before my conference in Sedona. More water…I’m fading fast.

I See A Darkness



Cholla Power Plant on Hwy I40 approximately an hour from Flagstaff


Angry driving face.

TRADITIONAL NAVAJO SONG

With your moccasins of dark cloud, come to us!
With your leggings of dark cloud, come to us!
With your skirt of dark cloud, come to us!
With your head-dress of dark cloud, come to us!

With the zigzag lightening flung over your head, come to us, soaring!
With the rainbow hanging high over your head, come to us, soaring!
With the zigzag lightening flung out high on the ends of your wings, come to us!
With the rainbow hanging high on the ends of your wings, come to us!

I have made your sacrifice,
I have prepared a smoke for you.

My feet restore for me,
My legs restore for me,
My body restore for me,
My mind restore for me,
My voice restore for me,
Today take out your spell for me.

Far off from me it is taken!
Far off you have done it!
Happily I recover!

Happily my interior becomes cool,
Happily my eyes regain their power,
Happily my head becomes cool,
Happily my legs regain their power,
Happily I hear again!
Happily for me the spell is taken off!

Happily may I walk
In beauty, I walk!

With beauty before me, I walk
With beauty behind me, I walk
With beauty below me, I walk
With beauty above me, I walk
With beauty all around me, I walk

In beauty it is finished
In beauty it is finished
In beauty it is finished
In beauty it is finished

Wednesday, November 18, 2009

Sacred Navajo Mountain of the South: Mount Taylor - Tsoodzi/



I have ponderosa sap stuck between my teeth. Night is clear. No one needs to know where I am. But I might as well tell you anyway. Grants, NM – cowboy town. Down and West from Cochiti, San Domingo, San Felipe, Santa Anna Pueblos. Left early this morning. Slipping out in silence. Into my own atmosphere again. Returned. The spirit of adventure I forget to indulge. Playing coy. But not so. My nature is untagged and roaming. I am more wild than I thought.
So I get to Grants, headed for Mount Taylor or Tsoodzi/ pronounced Tsoodshishl. The sacred Navajo mountain of the South. The turquoise mountain. Takes me almost two hours to find the trail to the peak, after a three hour stretch from Santa Fe. Drive down route NM 139, dirt road until I am unable to overtake a snow-packed mogul. I retire. Find a perfect camp spot. Make an offering. I imagine rolling out my sleeping bag, under the stars, small fire, freezing cold, away from it all. Alone. With bears. And coyotes of course. I feel the fire in my chest burn. Eyes reveal how rabid I am. Take me to the mountain! Turns out I end up on Lobos Canyon. Apparently, I want the other NM 139. Hhhusp. (That was a patient sigh). Lets just say cheers to the men of roadside maintenance. Half hour climb, canyons emerging, praying my blue boat makes it up snowy mountain roads, trying to ignore the bumps and scrapes I hear below from rock debris. I admit looking back every so often to make sure no UFOs have been left for dead out from beneath the car.

Finally make it to the trail. Only a small sign indicates the entrance through the woods. Car parked. Alone. Almost 1:30. I cleanse with Florida water. Bright sun on my arms, cool air. My feet shuffle through snow, following footprints, dog and deer tracks. Not straight up, but steady climb up 2,000ft more. A bird welcomes me. I call back. He calls. I call. I smile. Carry my rakau – my sacred stick from New Zealand – making up for my sprained ankle. I wear turquoise around my neck. Out of shape at high altitude. Frequent stops. Higher up. Getting cold, no jacket. Each hand cups an ear while I huddle by a tree. But not so bad…Sun still filters through the aspen and pines. I carry on. Big boulders and prominent rocks covered with turquoise lichen. Everything is alive. Silent. I meet no one else. But I have me. And I will always be straight with myself, and considerate, honest, gentle, and play at my own pace. It is good to have someone holding space. I hit what I suspect as the 3/4 mark up the mountain and I feel the faint contraction of will, telling me to stop. Too hard. It is good enough. I honored the mountain already, didn’t I? But what was once humility, bowing out with grace when it is time, I am now just being weak. It can be a challenge to admit when you hear the voice reminding you how noble it can be to quit when it becomes a game. I always know the truth behind this voice, but this was a breakthrough of strong-will power, enabling me to pull through.




I ask for some medicine to help me. Then I notice a Ponderosa Pine with crystallized sap crusted to the bark. I pull of a small piece and eat it. I chew and chew. Minty, sweet pine flavor with the texture of wax. I feel a resurgence of energy. I make my way to the top. Filled with pride, gratitude, freedom, elements, health. Blood pumping. Out of breath. I see a vulture fly close by with a bald head. And I climb a rock to meet a summit. I make a tobacco offering with my prayers. A view for hundreds of miles. Sun warm. Hands numb. Infinite energy for transformation. Every story fits within the wings of the butterfly. I stand and am happy. Wind blown hair. Eyes see you and love you. The mountain tells me about roots, sap, and animals. Medicine. I become bear. Medicine Woman. I calculate the sun dropping and climb down from my perch. A “caw” from above. A raven flies! Over my head and descends low doing dips and patterns. A ceremonial presentation. I caw back and somehow it sounds just like Raven. Over and over we joyously call to each other. Sisters. She swoops low and then ascends until eventually drifting away. I received a rock on my way down. Then the same small bird chirps at me as I emerge from the edge of the woods. I love this mountain. I do not know what the Navajos say about the mountain, I call it Holy Medicine. I give thanks. Driving home. Powerful. Precise. Welcomes without condition or strain into the home of Dzi/ Tsoodzi/. Pink clouds over the town through I40. The roses bloom above this evening. Not in my mind, but my heart.